Getting there and around

Airport
Istanbul's Atatürk Airport is Turkey's largest and busiest. Any number of popular regular services from the Middle East, the USA, Australia and Europe land here. In 2001 another airport, Sabiha Gokçen International Airport, opened at Kurtköy on the Asian side of the city, though most flights still arrive and depart from Atatürk. The price of your air ticket will usually cover the airport departure tax.

Atatürk Airport is 23km (14mi) west of Sultanahmet. A taxi into the city centre is the quickest option; it takes around half an hour. Another option is to take an airport bus, which takes 35-60 minutes to get to Taksim Square. If you are heading for Sultanahmet, get out at the Yenikapi stop beneath the underpass.

Public transport
Istanbul has a decent public transport network, which you'll appreciate once you get the hang of pre-buying tickets (try an Akbil pass instead, if you're in town for a few weeks), jumping on half-moving vehicles and avoiding armpits in tram jams. And if it all gets too much, a mad taxi driver is never far away to race you to your destination - and you won't pay too much for the thrill, either. But all public transport slows to a crawl around peak hours; this is the time to take to your feet. Walking is the best way to see Istanbul - though the ferries rate a close second.

The main bus station, the International Istanbul Bus Station, or more simply, the 'otogar', is 10km (6mi) west of Sultanahmet at Esenler. Both city and private buses run services in Istanbul. The suburban trains are a bit decrepit but reliable and inexpensive, running from Sirkeci station. Istanbul's metro is under construction, though some lines are already in service; it's inexpensive, with frequent services. There are several tramlines to choose from if you want a ride with a view. Istanbul has a large fleet of yellow taxis, but a cheaper way of getting around the streets is to hire a dolmus, a shared taxi or minibus. Ferries and catamarans can take you along the Golden Horn or up the Bosphorus.